Post by 360DARTGTS on May 10, 2004 13:05:18 GMT -5
Here's a 1,2,3 approach to diagnosing what is wrong with your ignition system.
This is my generic way to show a schematic of a ECU connector to explain how to test your system... sorry 'bout the cheesy drawing hope this makes sense. this is looking from the electrical connector side of the connector.
-/2 3)
1
-\4 5)
#1 is the pointed side of the connector. #'s 3 and 5 are the radiused side of the connector that attaches to ECU.... I think this makes sense!?!
#'s denote connector pins
Here we go
1. Remove the wiring plug from the control unit. (do this only while ignition switch is OFF)
2. Turn the ignition switch on
3. Ground the negative voltmeter lead.
4. Connect positive lead to the #1 cavity. Voltage should be within 1 volt of battery voltage with all accessories off. If not check the circuit through to the battery.
5. Connect the voltmeter positive to the #2 connector. Voltage should be within 1 volt of the battery with all accessories off. If not check circuit through to the battery.
6. Connect voltmeter positive lead to cavity #3. Voltage should be within 1 volt of battery aith all accessories off. If not check circuit through to battery.
7. Turn ignition switch off
8. Connect OHMeter leads to cavities #4 and #5. the resistance should be 150-900 OHMs . If it isn't detach the dual lead connector from the dist. Check the resistance of the dual lead connector. If it still isn't within the range replace the pickup coil.
9. Connect one OHMeter lead to a ground and the other to either dist. connector. If the OHMeter shows a reading replace the dist. pickup coil.
10. Connect one OHMeter lead to a ground and the other to connector #5 the OHMeter should show continuity. If not, remove and remount the control unit and check again. Replace the control unit if no continuity can be established.
11. Make sure the ignition switch is off and replace the control unit connector plug and the dist. plug
12. Remove the center wire from the dist. Very cautiously with INSULATED pliers hold the cable about 3/16" from the engine block and have the starter operated. If there is no spark replace the control unit. try test again and if there is still no spark replace the coil. I guess the insulated stuff isn't neccessary if your in need of waking up.
This is just something that I've follwed in the past that works very well for ignition system diagnosis. Hope this helps!
This is my generic way to show a schematic of a ECU connector to explain how to test your system... sorry 'bout the cheesy drawing hope this makes sense. this is looking from the electrical connector side of the connector.
-/2 3)
1
-\4 5)
#1 is the pointed side of the connector. #'s 3 and 5 are the radiused side of the connector that attaches to ECU.... I think this makes sense!?!
#'s denote connector pins
Here we go
1. Remove the wiring plug from the control unit. (do this only while ignition switch is OFF)
2. Turn the ignition switch on
3. Ground the negative voltmeter lead.
4. Connect positive lead to the #1 cavity. Voltage should be within 1 volt of battery voltage with all accessories off. If not check the circuit through to the battery.
5. Connect the voltmeter positive to the #2 connector. Voltage should be within 1 volt of the battery with all accessories off. If not check circuit through to the battery.
6. Connect voltmeter positive lead to cavity #3. Voltage should be within 1 volt of battery aith all accessories off. If not check circuit through to battery.
7. Turn ignition switch off
8. Connect OHMeter leads to cavities #4 and #5. the resistance should be 150-900 OHMs . If it isn't detach the dual lead connector from the dist. Check the resistance of the dual lead connector. If it still isn't within the range replace the pickup coil.
9. Connect one OHMeter lead to a ground and the other to either dist. connector. If the OHMeter shows a reading replace the dist. pickup coil.
10. Connect one OHMeter lead to a ground and the other to connector #5 the OHMeter should show continuity. If not, remove and remount the control unit and check again. Replace the control unit if no continuity can be established.
11. Make sure the ignition switch is off and replace the control unit connector plug and the dist. plug
12. Remove the center wire from the dist. Very cautiously with INSULATED pliers hold the cable about 3/16" from the engine block and have the starter operated. If there is no spark replace the control unit. try test again and if there is still no spark replace the coil. I guess the insulated stuff isn't neccessary if your in need of waking up.
This is just something that I've follwed in the past that works very well for ignition system diagnosis. Hope this helps!